Helpful Calor Gas?

Calor Sell the gas in kilos but the cylinder tare weight on the aluminium collar is in pounds and ounces. It’s not helpful when they don’t state the units! Worse, they show it as (in my case) 17.14 but it isn’t a decimal point so doesn’t mean that, it means 17lbs 14ounces.. . Remember there are 16ounces to 1 pound...

To find out how much gas you have left, convert the units, kg to lbs or vice versa and deduct the shown tare weight from the actual weight... 1 pound = 0.45359237 kgs. 1kg= 2.20462262 lbs.

#TowSafe #TowLegal

To GREASE or not To GREASE?

There seems to be a significant amount of controversy regarding whether, or not, the towball/coupling interface should be greased.

A considerable minority seem to think it shouldn't be but, I haven't yet seen a single, valid, argument that supports the theory.

The interface between the vehicle and the towed trailer is metal to metal. The nature of the beast is that it moves..... sideways by some margin and up and down to a lesser extent. A towball/coupling combination in good order has quite considerable friction between the two and it is inevitable that wear will occur.

It is ESSENTIAL that the inside of the cup on the coupling is kept clean and lightly lubricated to minimise wear and stress.

Knott/Avonride, one of Europe's leading coupling manufacturers list it in their trailer maintenance schedule, https://www.knottuk.com/.../KF082-Trailer-Svc-Maint...

The 'HAYNES' Trailer Manual (authored by my old friend Brian Bate IEng MSOE MIRTE) ISBN 1 84425 2124 Lists it as the first maintenance item

The Police Federation Towing ROADCRAFT 'the essential towing handbook' ISBN 0 11 552022 8 states " you should ensure there is a thin coat of grease on the towball to reduce friction and minimise wear".

In 30+ years of trailer maintenance and servicing, I have ALWAYS lightly lubricated towballs and coupling heads. I see NO REASON to change my stance!

The exception to this advice is if you use a friction head stabiliser directly on the towball or a towball mounted cycle carrier which clamps on. In these cases, it is necessary to degrease the ball using readily available, proprietory, degreasers and to re-lubricate as and when towing again.

Inertia (over-run) Coupling Maintenance.

Inertia coupling maintenance

CAUTION! OVERCENTRE HANDBRAKES MUST BE SECURED IN A SAFE POSITION PRIOR TO UNDERTAKING ANY MAINTENANCE!

1. Coupling mounting bolts - check for tightness. 12mm 8.8ht bolts should be 76 to 80Nm torque.

2. Coupling head bolts - check for tightness. 12mm 8.8ht bolts should be 76 to 80Nm torque.

3. Visually check for stress cracking of the coupling body around the mounting bolts (Most likely on pressed steel bodies).

4. Coupling head - using a new 50mm towball (to meetBSAU 113c it must be between 49.61mm and 50.00mm) check that it locates and locks correctly in the coupling head and that any wear/location indicators are functioning. Lubricate the mechanism and lightly grease inside the coupling socket.

5. Draw tube - check, by moving the shaft up and down, that the bearings that support the draw tube are not worn. The amount of end float between the shaft and the brake lever that is acceptable varies between manufacturers and should be checked in their service instructions

6. Drawtube gaiter - check for splits and tears. Replace if damaged.

7. Damper - with the handbrake tied down and wheels chocked, push the coupling in by hand. It should move in steadily with uniform resistance. A damper with no resistance at all or conversely, very high resistance but flies out when released is faulty. Replace immediately. N.B. it is essential that the correct specification of replacement damper is used and that manufacturers' fitting instructions are followed.

8. Handbrake - check the action for correct movement. All modern inertia couplings are designed for auto-reverse brakes. The handbrake assembly will include an energy store that is under high pressure. DO NOT REMOVE! WARNING! Do not operate the handbrake unless the coupling is connected to a complete brake linkage. If not connected, the handbrake MUST be tied down.

9. Lubricate the pivots, including any grease nipples underneath.

10. Grease nipples - apply a grease gun to nipples on top of the housing, ensuring that a liberal amount of grease is applied.

11. Breakaway cable - check for kinks, fraying, operation of the clip and that the cable is securely attached to the "burst" ring. If replacement is required, ensure that a genuine part is used. It is essential that the cable passes through a hole or guide near the front of the coupling to ensure it’s final pull is in a straight line in the event of a breakaway.