Whatever trailer you tow, stability is all important.
Snaking is not an uncommon problem on high sided trailers such as caravans, or on combinations with a long overhang on the trailer. There are aids that can be used to help control it but getting the noseweight right initially is fundamemtal.
Commercial noseweight gauges are available such as the MP970 Noseweight Indicator Gauge from Maypole. https://www.maypoleltd.com/product/mp970-noseweight-indicator-gauge/.
However, bathroom scales, used correctly, will work equally well!
Using my method, checking the weight of both single and double (or multi) axle trailers is straightforward.
Towball height is critical! Especially on twin or triple axle trailers. On multi axles, If you need to push the coupling downwards on to the towball, the noseweight is NEGATIVE and the unit will be highly unstable. Having to push downwards puts more weight on the trailers front axle and in extreme circumstances it can be overloaded while the rear axle(s) are doing almost nothing. If you need to lift the coupling up to get it onto the ball, noseweight could be excessive and over the allowable limits of the towball, tow-bar and vehicle chassis. The trailer's front axle will be unloaded while the rear is over loaded.
STEP 1. On level ground, locate the trailer onto the towball and lift the jockey wheel clear, if fitted. Towing vehicles vary but with soft suspension, it's possible the ball height could be significantly lower when laden compared with unladen.
STEP 2. Measure the height from the ground to the centre of the towball/coupling head. Record this height when the towball is laden.
STEP 3. Unhitch the trailer and replace the towball with the noseweight guage, set at the prerecorded height.
If using bathroom scales, ensure they are on a flat surface, protect the platen with a sheet of plywood or similar and use a broom handle cut to the required length, allowing for the depth of the scales. Record the noseweight.
STEP 4. If the load needs to be adjusted, REMOVE the noseweight guage, ensure the jockey wheel is down and the handbrake is securely applied. With a car on a transporter, just a few inches backwards or forwards will make a big difference to the noseweight. The ideal weight is likely to be NOT LESS than 50kg, aiming for around 7% of the gross trailer weight. (1 tonne gross = 70kgs noseweight).
STEP 5. With a car on a transporter, once the desired weight is achieved, be sure to fix chocks to the deck, in front of the front wheels. On subsequent uses, you should then be able to just drive straight up to them and be right first time. ENSURE the vehicle is securely strapped down!
DO NOT exceed the maximum allowable noseweight of the vehicle chassis (should be shown in the handbook) or of the coupling, the towball or the towbar. Noseweight on type approval plates is shown as the 'S' value in kgs.
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